How to Install Cedar Shingles? (A Step by Step Guide)
Installing cedar shingles adds timeless beauty and natural durability to any home exterior. This comprehensive guide walks you through the entire process, from selecting the right materials and nail guns to mastering proper spacing and fastening techniques for long-lasting results.
There is something undeniably charming about the look of a home clad in cedar shingles. Beyond the classic, rustic aesthetic that blends perfectly with nature, cedar offers incredible durability and natural resistance to the elements. If you have decided to take on the project of installing cedar shingles yourself, you are in for a rewarding challenge. Whether you are re-roofing a garden shed or tackling a full home renovation, the process is straightforward once you understand the rhythm and the tools of the trade.
One of the biggest game-changers in modern construction is the use of pneumatic tools. Specifically, knowing how to use a nail gun for shingles makes the job go ten times faster compared to hand-nailing every single piece. We are going to look at everything you need to know, from the initial site prep to the final capping. Grab your tool belt, because we are diving deep into the art of cedar shingle installation.
Choosing the Right Tools and Materials
Before you climb up that ladder, you need to ensure you have the correct supplies. Cedar is a unique material; it is soft, porous, and prone to splitting if you use the wrong fasteners. The most important tool in your arsenal will be a high-quality nail gun designed for wood shingles. A standard framing gun is too heavy and will likely crack the cedar. Instead, look for a coil roofing nailer or a dedicated cedar shingle nailer that allows for precise depth adjustment.
Selecting Your Fasteners
Never skimp on your nails. Since cedar contains natural tannins, it can react with certain metals, leading to ugly black streaks on your roof. Always use 304 or 316-grade stainless steel nails. If stainless steel is out of your budget, hot-dipped galvanized nails are your next best option. Avoid electro-galvanized nails, as they will rust prematurely when exposed to the natural acids in the cedar wood.
Underlayment Requirements
The health of your roof depends on what happens underneath the shingles. Cedar shingles need to breathe. If you trap moisture against the back of the shingle, it will rot rapidly. Use a high-quality roofing felt or, better yet, a cedar-specific breather mat. This material provides a small air gap that allows moisture to escape, significantly increasing the lifespan of your investment.
Preparation and Layout for Success
A successful installation is 80 percent preparation. Start by inspecting your roof deck. It should be clean, dry, and free of any protruding nail heads or debris. If you are replacing an old roof, make sure you have stripped it down to the bare plywood or shiplap decking.
Establishing Your Starting Line
Your first course of shingles, known as the starter course, is the most important. It must be perfectly straight. Snap a chalk line across the bottom edge of the roof to guide your placement. It is standard practice to double or even triple the first course to ensure proper water shedding. Use a spacer block to keep your gaps consistent. Aim for a gap of about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch between shingles. This space is vital because cedar expands when it gets wet. If the shingles are butted tightly together, they will buckle and cup as soon as the first rain hits.
The Importance of Staggering
You never want your shingle gaps to align vertically across multiple courses. This is a recipe for leaks. When you are installing your second course, ensure that the joints (the gaps) are offset by at least 1.5 inches from the gaps in the course below. This “staggered” pattern ensures that water that gets past a joint is immediately blocked by a solid shingle in the row beneath it.
Mastering the Cedar Shingle Nail Gun
Using a nail gun can be intimidating if you are a beginner, but it is the secret to a professional-looking roof. The key is finding the right air pressure. If the pressure is too high, the nail head will sink too deep into the cedar, which weakens the hold and allows water to pool in the depression. If the pressure is too low, the nail will stand proud, preventing the next course of shingles from laying flat.
Setting the Depth
Take a few scrap pieces of cedar and test your nail gun on them before you start on the roof. Adjust the regulator on your air compressor and the depth-adjustment dial on the gun until the nail head sits perfectly flush with the wood. It should be tight, but not dimpled. Once you have your setting, you can move with confidence.
Fastening Technique
For each shingle, use two nails. Place them about one inch from the side edges and about one to two inches above the exposure line. The exposure line is the part of the shingle that is left visible to the weather. If you place the nails too low, they will be visible once the next course is installed, which is not only unsightly but also creates potential leak points.
Installing the Field Shingles
Now that you have the starter course down and you are comfortable with your nail gun, you can start laying the field. This is the bulk of the work. Work your way up the roof row by row, keeping a close eye on your spacing and your staggered joints.
Managing Exposure
The “exposure” is the amount of shingle that shows below the course above it. For a standard roof, 5 inches of exposure is common for 16-inch shingles. You can use a simple jig—a small piece of wood cut to your desired exposure length—to quickly mark or align each row as you go. Consistency here is what separates a DIY project from a professional installation.
Dealing with Hips and Valleys
Hips and valleys are the most complex parts of any roofing job. For valleys, you want to use metal flashing to ensure water is channeled away effectively. Install your metal valley flashing before the shingles, and overlap the shingles over the flashing by at least 6 inches. For hips, you will need to weave the shingles together or use “hip caps” to create a weather-tight seal that looks finished and neat.
Finishing Touches and Maintenance
Once you reach the top of the roof, you will be left with a gap at the ridge. This is where ridge caps come into play. These are smaller shingle pieces that are nailed over the top to bridge the gap between the two sides of the roof. Some people choose to use a copper or metal ridge vent here, which helps keep the attic ventilated while maintaining a sharp look.
The Final Inspection
Before you pack up your tools, walk the roof and check for any “proud” nails that might have been missed or any shingles that look cracked. If you find a cracked shingle, replace it immediately. It is much easier to do now than after the first major storm.
Long-Term Care
Cedar is a natural product and will eventually weather to a beautiful silver-gray. To keep it in peak condition, keep the roof free of debris like leaves and pine needles. These materials hold moisture against the shingles and can lead to moss or mold growth. A gentle spray with a hose once a year can go a long way in keeping your roof clean and healthy.
Conclusion
Installing cedar shingles is a labor of love, but the result is a roof that stands the test of time. By choosing the right stainless steel fasteners, mastering your nail gun settings, and paying attention to proper spacing and staggering, you can achieve a result that is both functional and stunning. Remember, the goal isn’t just speed; it is precision. Take your time, focus on your gaps, and enjoy the process of crafting a roof that will protect your home for decades to come.
When you finish that final ridge cap, take a step back and appreciate the craftsmanship. There is a deep satisfaction in knowing that you handled the project from start to finish. With the right tools and a little bit of patience, you have elevated your home with one of the most beautiful and durable materials available in the construction world.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the ideal spacing between cedar shingles?
You should leave a gap of about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch between each shingle. This space allows the wood to naturally expand when it absorbs moisture without buckling or cupping.
Can I use a regular roofing nail gun for cedar shingles?
You can use a coil roofing nailer, but it must have a precise depth adjustment feature. You need to test it on scrap wood to ensure the nail head sits flush without crushing or splitting the cedar fibers.
Why do my cedar shingles have black streaks?
Black streaks usually occur when the tannins in the cedar react with non-stainless steel nails. To avoid this, always use 304 or 316-grade stainless steel nails.
How much exposure should I leave for 16-inch shingles?
A standard exposure for 16-inch cedar shingles is 5 inches. This ensures that there is enough overlap between rows to keep water from penetrating the underlayment.
Do I need a special underlayment for cedar?
Yes, cedar needs to breathe. Using a cedar-specific breather mat or a high-quality, non-asphaltic roofing felt helps prevent trapped moisture from causing the shingles to rot from the back side.
How many nails should I use per shingle?
Always use two nails per shingle. Place them about one inch from the side edges and one to two inches above the exposure line to keep them hidden and secure.
